NOTES FROM OUR HIKES

Sori, 28 May 2024

Lizards are constant companions of ours on the hikes my wife and I do during the Spring and Summer, wherever we happen to be in Italy or in Austria. We see them especially where we are moving over stony, sunny ground. They streak across our path, they scurry away from us into the surrounding vegetation or down a crevice in the rocks. Sometimes we just hear a rustle in the grass or dry leaves. In rare cases, they sit on a rock and warily watch us pass, ready to move away at lightning speed were we to suddenly make a lunge at them.

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Very, very occasionally, we are not at the centre of their beady-eyed attention, but that’s only because they are embroiled in battles with other lizards, fighting over territories or mates I suppose.

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We’re not talking about spectacular animals here; Komodo dragons they definitely are not.

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But that’s fine. I think I would get quite nervous if I came across lizards that big. I mean, they can weigh 70kg! I’m not even sure I would want to come across monitor lizards. The ones we regularly saw swimming in the canals in Bangkok were a good metre in length. Luckily, the species we see are quite small, I’m guessing some 6cm long from snout to tail. They are not particularly beautiful, although recently I have seen some lovely green species.

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Lizards always take me back to my boyhood, those long summer holidays at my French grandmother’s house. She had some walls in her garden which were the haunts of many a lizard.

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One of the games my cousins and I played was trying to catch them. Was that difficult! “Streaked lightning” sums lizards up well. The few times we did manage to catch one, it would more often than not break off its tail to escape. How we laughed at this! The casual cruelty of little boys

I’ve been reading up about lizards, their biology, their ecology. Fascinating stuff! It’s at times like these that I wish I had studied biology. I did some biology at O-level and wanted to carry on with it at A-level, putting myself down for the triad of Physics, Chemistry, and Biology – anything to get away from odious mathematics. But the head of the Science department collared me  – Fr. Michael, it was, I still remember his name and the talk we had. He asked me if I wanted to be a doctor, and when I said no, he said I would have more opportunities if I dropped Biology for the dreaded Mathematics. And so, like the good boy that I was, I followed his advice. My good friend Mark, on the other hand, did biology. He already knew he wanted to be a doctor, and a damned fine doctor he became.

I can’t say Fr. Michael was completely wrong. And in the end, looking back now over the intervening 50-odd years, I don’t regret the path I took. But sometimes – when I’m reading up about lizards, for instance – I do wistfully wish I had studied biology.

RUBBING ALONG TOGETHER

Bangkok, 1 November 2014

I think it must be a scientific law that the closer you get to the equator, the more species you will find per square metre (or foot, if you wish) looking for their space in the sun. All that steamy heat seems to lead to a sustained biological ebullience. Certainly, in a totally unscientific survey, my wife and I have agreed that the number of species wishing to share with us our hot and steamy Bangkok apartment is considerably higher than it was in Beijing. There, over a period of five years, we catalogued a few, relatively small, cockroaches making a frantic getaway over the floor and that was it (although the rare cockroach sighting led to apoplectic calls to the front desk and demands for a thorough chemical spraying). Here, in just one month and a bit, we have seen:

– A little lizard, very pale, almost albino, which we first sighted peeping out from under the dining table, then from behind a column that we have in the living room, then in the cupboard under the kitchen sink. He looked very similar to this little fellow.
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I have had a soft spot for lizards ever since I used to chase them as a boy across the walls of my grandmother’s garden in France, so I was pleased to see it. But my wife is not a lizardophile and demanded that I get rid of it. I rather reluctantly chased it around a bit and was secretly pleased when it disappeared of its own accord.
– A horribly large cockroach, which luckily was flat on its scaly back, dead, in the shower. But I have seen them horribly alive, skittering ahead of me across the pavements, always in the darker corners of the neighborhood. Disgusting creatures, I refuse to grace them with a picture ….
– A number of wonderfully large moths, which flutter in at night from out over the river and settle down for a rest. They are really beautiful, nothing like the dreary little things we have in Europe, so I’d be pleased to share my living space with them.
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But my wife is having none of it, so with a sigh I shoo them out, using the pasta drainer to catch them and carry them out.
– Several species of bird which use the balcony railing as a favorite stopping place. There are those pesky pigeons which crowd our squares in Europe. But there has also been a beautiful bird, which I think is also a type of pigeon although my wife disagrees.
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Cheeky little sparrows also hop on and off the railings, beadily eyeing any crumbs which might have fallen off the table that we carry out onto the balcony for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
– swallows, which my wife says she found early one morning twittering around on the living room parquet (we had left the windows open). Imagine that! I see them dive and swoop over the river
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as I have seen them dive and swoop over summer fields in Europe. But I have never seen them stand still.

All this in the few square meters (or feet, if you wish) of our apartment. Expanding out a little, we’ve seen beautiful little birds, black with white tufts on their wings, fluttering silently on and off the clumps of water hyacinth which drift past us on the river. They have recently been joined by a lovely white egret.

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And then there’s the Asian koel bird which I’ve mentioned before. I keep on hearing it, but I’ve never managed to see it. In the dirty, oh so very dirty, canal which runs behind the office, I’ve seen what I think is a monitor lizard swimming lazily (or sickly?) in the watery gook: the water is greyer than in this photo.
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The same canal teams with fish, which some enterprising (or mad?) people fish from time to time. And we have a couple of next-door fishermen who put out their nets in the river while we are having breakfast, well out of the way of the busy river traffic. I’ve sometimes caught a gleam of silvery scales in the bottom of their shallow little boats.

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But I presume that the number of species we can stumble across in the concrete jungle of Bangkok would be nothing compared to what is present in the real jungle – or what is left of it in Thailand. That pleasure awaits us still.

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Lizard: http://naturestudent.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/20130121-162953.jpg (in http://naturestudent.wordpress.com/2013/01/21/lovely-lizards/)
Moth: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3HpNI3L0lM/TzdPTJ13xQI/AAAAAAAAAD8/TiXKoEuS1go/s1600/Samia+canningii.JPG (in http://norfolkbirderinthailand.blogspot.com/2012/02/thailand-moths-part-two.html)
Bird on the balcony railing: my wife’s picture
Flying swallow: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8164/7244597922_bd666a00e8_z.jpg (in https://www.flickr.com/photos/clicks_1000/7244597922/)
Egret: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f1/Little_Egret_flying_-_Thailand.jpg (in http://c
ommons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Little_Egret_flying_-_Thailand.jpg)
Monitor lizard: http://cdn2.vtourist.com/4/6079856-Monitor_lizard_swims_khlong_Bangkok.jpg?version=2 (in http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/Thailand/Central_Eastern_Thailand/Bangkok-1445238/Off_the_Beaten_Path-Bangkok-Khlongs_Canals-BR-1.html)